How to: Delete Your Data Securely on Windows

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Most of us think that a file on our computer is deleted once we put the file in our computer's trash folder and empty the trash; in reality, deleting the file does not completely erase it. When one does this, the computer just makes the file invisible to the user and marks the part of the disk that the file was stored on as "available”—meaning that your operating system can now write over the file with new data. Therefore, it may be weeks, months, or even years before that file is overwritten with a new one. Until this happens, that “deleted” file is still on your disk; it’s just invisible to normal operations. And with a little work and the right tools (such as “undelete” software or forensic methods), you can even still retrieve the “deleted” file. The bottom line is that computers normally don't "delete" files; they just allow the space those files take up to be overwritten by something else some time in the future.

The best way to delete a file forever, then, is to make sure it gets overwritten immediately, in a way that makes it difficult to retrieve what used to be written there. Your operating system probably already has software that can do this for you—software that can overwrite all of the "empty" space on your disk with gibberish and thereby protect the confidentiality of deleted data.

Note that securely deleting data from solid state drives (SSDs), USB flash drives, and SD cards is very hard! The instructions below apply only to traditional disk drives, and not to SSDs, which are becoming standard in modern laptops, USB keys/USB thumb drives, or SD cards/flash memory cards.

This is because these types or drives use a technique called wear leveling. (You can read more about why this causes problems for secure deletion here.)

If you’re using an SSD or a USB flash drive, you can jump to the section below.

On Windows, we currently suggest using BleachBit. BleachBit is a free/open source secure deletion tool for Windows and Linux, and is much more sophisticated than the built-in Cipher.exe.

BleachBit can be used to quickly and easily target individual files for secure deletion, or to implement periodic secure deletion policies. It is also possible to write custom file deletion instructions. Please check the documentation for further information.


Getting BleachBit Anchor link

You can get BleachBig on Windows by downloading the installer from the BleachBit download page

Click on the BleachBit installer .exe link. You'll be taken to the download page.

Many browsers will ask you to confirm whether you want to download this file. Internet Explorer 11 shows a bar at the bottom of the browser window with an orange border.

For any browser it is best to first save the file before proceeding, so click the “Save” button. By default, most browsers save downloaded files in the Downloads folder.


Installing BleachBit Anchor link

Keep the Windows Explorer window open and double-click on BleachBit-1.6-setup. You'll be asked if you want to allow the installation of this program. Click the “Yes” button.

A window will open asking you to select an installation language. Select the language you want and click the OK button.

The next window will show you the GNU General Public License. Check the box acceptance box and click the Next button.

In the next window BleachBit shows some customization options. You may leave the options as they are. We recommend removing the check mark from the Desktop option. Click the Next button.

Now BleachBit will ask you to confirm whether you want to install again. Click the Install button.

Finally, the BleachBit installer shows a window telling you the installation is complete. Click the Next button.

The last window in the installer asks whether you want to run BleachBit. Remove the checkmark from the Run BleachBit option. Click the Finish button.

Using BleachBit Anchor link

BleachBit interface

Go to the Start menu, click the Windows icon, and select BleachBit from the menu.

A small window will open and confirm you want to open BleachBit.

The main BleachBit window will open. BleachBit will detect several commonly installed programs and show special options for each program. BleachBit comes with four default settings.

Using Presets

BleachBit can wipe the traces Internet Explorer leaves behind using the Internet Explorer preset (however BleachBit cannot wipe traces from any other browser). Check the box next to Internet Explorer. Notice how all the boxes belonging the Cookies, Form history, History, and Temporary files option are also checked. You can uncheck them as needed. Click the Clean button.

BleachBit will now clean up certain files and show you the progress.

Securely Delete a Folder

Click the File menu and select Shred Folders.

A small window will open up. Select the folder you want to shred.

BleachBit will ask you to confirm whether you want to permanently delete the files you selected. Click the Delete button.

BleachBit will now show you the files you deleted. Notice that BleachBit securely deletes each file in the folder, then securely deletes the folder.

Securely Delete a File

Click the File menu and select Shred Files.

A file selection window will open up. Select the files you want to shred.

BleachBit will ask you to confirm whether you want to permanently delete the files you selected. Click the Delete button.

BleachBit has a number of other features. The most useful may be to “wipe free space.” This will attempt to remove any traces of files you have already deleted. Often Windows will leave all or part of the data from deleted files in the remaining free space left on the hard drive.  “Wipe free space” will overwrite these supposedly empty parts of the hard drive with random data. Wiping free space can take a lot of time, depending on how much spare capacity your drive has.


A Warning About the Limitations of Secure Deletion Tools Anchor link

First, remember that the advice above only deletes files on the disk of the computer you’re using. None of the tools above will delete backups that were made to somewhere else on your computer, another disk or USB drive, a “Time Machine,” on an email server, or in the cloud. In order to securely delete a file, you must delete every copy of that file, everywhere it was stored or sent. Additionally, once a file is stored in the cloud (e.g. via Dropbox or some other file-sharing service) then there’s usually no way to guarantee that it will be deleted forever.

Unfortunately, there’s also another limitation to secure deletion tools. Even if you follow the advice above and you’ve deleted all copies of a file, there is a chance that certain traces of deleted files may persist on your computer, not because the files themselves haven't been properly deleted, but because some part of the operating system or some other program keeps a deliberate record of them.

There are many ways in which this could occur, but two examples should suffice to convey the possibility. On Windows or Mac OS, a copy of Microsoft Office may retain a reference to the name of a file in the "Recent Documents" menu, even if the file has been deleted (Office might sometimes even keep temporary files containing the contents of the file). On a Linux or other *nix system, OpenOffice may keep as many records as Microsoft Office, and a user's shell history file may contain commands that include the file's name, even though the file has been securely deleted. In practice, there may be dozens of programs that behave like this.

It's hard to know how to respond to this problem. It is safe to assume that even if a file has been securely deleted, its name will probably continue to exist for some time on your computer. Overwriting the entire disk is the only way to be 100% sure the name is gone.


Secure Deletion When Discarding Old Hardware Anchor link

If you want to finally throw a piece of hardware away or sell it on eBay, you'll want to make sure no one can retrieve your data from it. Studies have repeatedly found that computer owners usually fail to do this―hard drives are often resold chock-full of highly sensitive information. So, before selling or recycling a computer, be sure to overwrite its storage media with gibberish first. And even if you're not getting rid of it right away, if you have a computer that has reached the end of its life and is no longer in use, it's also safer to wipe the hard drive before stashing the machine in a corner or a closet. Darik's Boot and Nuke is a tool designed for this purpose, and there are a variety of tutorials on how to use it across the web (including here).

Some full-disk encryption software has the ability to destroy the master key, rendering a hard drive's encrypted contents permanently incomprehensible. Since the key is a tiny amount of data and can be destroyed almost instantaneously, this represents a much faster alternative to overwriting with software like Darik's Boot and Nuke, which can be quite time-consuming for larger drives. However, this option is only feasible if the hard drive was always encrypted. If you weren't using full-disk encryption ahead of time, you'll need to overwrite the whole drive before getting rid of it.


Discarding CD-ROMS Anchor link

When it comes to CD-ROMs, you should do the same thing you do with paper―shred them. There are inexpensive shredders that will chew up CD-ROMs. Never just toss a CD-ROM out in the garbage unless you're absolutely sure there's nothing sensitive on it.


Secure Deletion on Solid-State Disks (SSDs), USB Flash Drives, and SD Cards Anchor link

Unfortunately due to the way SSDs, USB flash drives, and SD cards work, it is difficult, if not impossible, to securely delete both individual files and free space. As a result your best bet in terms of protection is to use encryption—that way, even if the file is still on the disk, it will at least look like gibberish to anyone who gets ahold of it and can’t force you to decrypt it. At this point in time, we cannot provide a good general procedure that will definitely remove your data from an SSD. If you want to know why it’s so hard to delete data, read on.

As we mentioned above, SSDs and USB flash drives use a technique called wear leveling. At a high level, wear leveling works as follows. The space on every disk is divided into blocks, kind of like the pages in a book. When a file is written to disk, it’s assigned to a certain block or set of blocks (pages). If you wanted to overwrite the file then all you would have to do is tell the disk to overwrite those blocks. But in SSDs and USB drives, erasing and re-writing the same block can wear it out. Each block can only be erased and rewritten a limited number of times before that block just won’t work anymore (the same way if you keep writing and erasing with a pencil and paper, eventually the paper might rip and be useless). To counteract this, SSDs and USB drives will try to make sure that the amount of times each block has been erased and rewritten is about the same, so that the drive will last as long as possible (thus the term wear leveling). As a side effect, sometimes instead of erasing and writing the block a file was originally stored on, the drive will instead leave that block alone, mark it as invalid, and just write the modified file to a different block. This is kind of like leaving the page in the book unchanged, writing the modified file on a different page, and then just updating the book’s table of contents to point to the new page. All of this occurs at a very low level in the electronics of the disk, so the operating system doesn’t even realize it’s happened. This means, however, that even if you try to overwrite a file, there’s no guarantee the drive will actually overwrite it—and that’s why secure deletion with SSDs is so much harder.


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